Saturday, August 29, 2009

Tetepare Island – The largest uninhabited island in the South Pacific





More photos to come soon! Check www.tetepare.org for more information


Tetepare is a large volcanic island located to the South of the Western Province and covers a large area. The island was fled by its inhabitants more than a century ago due to a mysterious illness. They relocated on neighbouring islands, such as Rendova, leaving Tetepare pristine and rarely visited. More recently threatened with logging, It was saved by a community initiative supported by various donors: In 2002, the descendants of Tetepare inhabitants created an association to protect this last wild island, the TDA (Tetepare Descendants Association). The island became the perfect target for conservation to create a reserve for wildlife both marine and terrestrial with the involvement of the community.



Anthony and Michaela who hitched a ride on the Kuna, are currently volunteer advisers for Tetepare from AVI (Australian Volunteers International).

Some anchorages:
The south coast (weather coast of the island) is surrounded by a continuous lagoon whereas the protected North coast facing the Blanche channel is steep and lined by black sand beaches bordered by pristine rainforest.
KUNA visited a few possible of the anchorages. Some others are described in Dirk Sieling Cruising guide to the Solomons (unfortunately out of print).

Raro Bay – S 8º 42.192 E 157º 32.130
The shoreline is extremely steep except for a slightly shallower bank at the entrance of the main creek (where creek sediment build up). One has to approach fairly close to shore, leaving a small wave break to port and drop the pic on a 45 degree mud/sand slope in about 13 m of water. The anchorage is fairly protected from the trades wind and barely a roll came through in the absence of swell , thankfully as the current held the boat parallel to the shore. Not recommended in the summer season with NW winds!

One can go for a walk up the creek which mean ders between steep mud and carved volcanic stone banks. With care though as the rivers has lots of crocodiles. Don't dive in the tempting freshwater pools full of fish...


Waugh bay - S8º 42.415 E 157º 26.892
Same sort of configuration as Raro Bay, except steeper so the boat hangs even more precariously to shore!! A very short snorkelling reccie (the esturary is full of crocs) identified a mud bank in about 10 m of water on a 40 degree slope, before a 60-70 degree drop. Anchor on that bank. In Trades season, the corner is very protected and small gust hold the boat offshore.


Lagoon in front of the research station – S 8º 43.240 E 157º 26.395
On the below google earth image, follow the deep blue channel on the top left corner. A point on the stardboard side is marked by a white stick and a buoy. The reef edge on the left is steep.

Great spot but no room to swing a cat, well a 38’ Adams in between bommies, and shallow (2,5 to 3 m) on sand with relatively poor holding. With a short scope of 12 m, a Danforth and CQR in series totalling 80 pounds dragged a few meters in 25-30 knots of wind, so best to go there in light winds. Or best not eyeball the anchoring system at work!!!! The current running from SE-NW through the lagoon holds the boat nicely in position, limiting swing in between the bommies.



One can jump of the boat and snorkel or dive in the main channel and see dugongs, which are likely to hang out there most afternoons. There were three females with calves and couple of males last week. They tend to be very curious of snorkellers underwater.

Dugong feed on the rounded leafed seagrassess which are abundant in the shallow waters around the island.




From the first point west of the station and for 13 km to the East, Tetepare lagoon is managed as a marine reserve where every form of fishing is banned. The size of the fish in the lagoon behind the anchorage is a testimony of the benefits of the reserve. And the rest of the island is monitored by rangers for resource use such as trochus and coconut crab harvesting. Many old individuals hang out stationary in the current and a rent scared of divers and snorkellers like in other areas of the Solomons where they are fished. Some of the southern beaches are also turtle nesting ground, which can be visited with a guide during the egg laying season. Tetepare’s a home of many hawskbill turtles and of the endangered leatherback. The rangers tag turtle and monitor them as part of an international program.





Underwater coral reflection in glassy waters




Trevallys courting: one turns fully black while the other keeps it irony color



A school of barracudas generally hangs out in the deeper part channel. Watch the current!



Lots of cushion seastars!


Big Old stingray that's lost its tail!



A very large school of bumphead parrot fish hangs out at the anchorage in the morning. In other places there are hunted. They are especially vulnerable at night, as they sleep alltogether with their eyes open, oblivious to light sources, etc.

Friday, August 21, 2009

Flying with Solomon Airlines – a head scratching experiment!






The good side of this venture was some anchorage aerial reccies…



But the bad side is ONLY takes a four day trip to get back from Hobart to the Solomons… but owing to domestic flights, I never made it to my intended destination!!!!


If someone intends to travel to destinations other than Munda and Gizo with Solomon Airlines, please read on.

I caught the 9:55 plane going to Ngatokae (Western Province) on Friday Aug 21st. I was told the day before to be at the check in at 0800 am (which I found a curiously early for domestic!) so I came at 0900 am. The plane indeed left 15 minutes early, although passengers were not informed in advance.

After the plane landed in Munda, the pilot instructed me to get off the plane, because it was not doing the Ramata-Batuna-Ngatokae run as planned and had to go directly to Honiara to return 4 international passengers so they did not miss their international connection. So here I am, kicked off the plane, wondering why these passengers did not plan their connections better or why SolAir did not advise them on problems with tight connections time. I always allow at least one day I nmy travels for connection aleas… Why didn’t SolAir bring the entire 955 flight one hour earlier so it could make all the landings ???


I was told in Munda that a (funeral) charter plane in the afternoon would pick me up (and another passenger ex Munda) and drop us off at Ngatokae. The plane was planned to arrive at 3pm, depart Munda at 3:15pm…

The plane was late and departed at about 4:15 (or a bit later), lots of funeral discussion and communal crying was happening in the crowded tiny airport terminal. Off theplane went, but in the wrong direction!! Of course, need to go back to to Gizo to refuel. It’s my second visit to Gizo for the day… By the time refuelling was completed, the pilot informed us that it was too late to land in Ngatokae and she was going to try to make the runaway of Seghe, 100 km away form Ngatokae. We asked to be put up in Gizo for the night, to help our chances of getting to GTA from Gizo but this option was refused to us. The pilot instructed us that she was going to try land in Seghe. If not possible we would return to Honiara, which was a better option for us than Seghe.

The reason why we got landed in Seghe, is because the Ngatokae agent got confused and suggested the possibility of a canoe to come and pick us up from Seghe. With the high winds encountered that day, I knew that this was totally improbable that a canoe could come and certainly no such thing had been suggested or planned by our colleagues at Nagtokae and I mentioned I would prefer to return to Honiara then.

We were landed in Seghe and accomodated in the local lodge at our own cost. No food was to be found late on Friday night, only warm solbrew… But Peter the lodge owner was quite a friendly informed chap.

I tried to organize space on the Saturday morning plane which landed in Seghe, but it was full. Could have kicked a few passengers myself to make some space!!!!

To get a plane diverted, it generally takes 2-3 hours for the local agent to get in touch with the Air Operations, shouting on the HF radio, their only means of communication, even in areas with mobile coverage!!!!

I then tried to organize the Saturday afternoon Honiara-Munda plane to land in Seghe, pick us up and drop us off at Ngatokae. Radio communications were poor so I rang Operations directly with the local policeman’s mobile phone. It ran out of credit before confirming Seghe landing and Operations never rang the number I had given back to finish conversation. I could not find anymore phone credit and the plane did not land despite the local agent’s efforts. I had contacted both Gizo and Honiara offices to inform them of the situation but no one did much…

Eventually I could be picked up by yacht from Seghe, however, the other passenger was left stranded. Due to winds, it has not been possible to return to Ngatokae by boat.